Introduction by:
Rick Horwitz
Near the end of a long winter, Jack Lobdell
contacted me and said we needed to get away for a Spring Explorer run.
The next scheduled run which was set for August in Southern California
was still a long way off, we got the itch to go out and enjoy the Spring
weather in South East Utah.
Jack being very familiar with this part
of the state suggested we base our group in Blanding for the weekend. We
could then explore Arch Canyon and Hotel Rock devoting a full day to each
run.
Besides great fourwheeling Jack
introduced the group to Anasazi ruins.
Joe "Gonzo" Cushing at the
entrace of the Hotel Rock site
Sherd from a black on white
bowl
800-1290AD
All artifacts were left
were they were.
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Gray corrugated ware
800-1290AD
The only thing we took were
photos.
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Now on to the wheelin'
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Left-Jack Lobdell
descends slope
leading away from Arch Canyon
overlook. Above-Trace
crawls down
a trail near Hotel Rock. |
That rear tire is in the
air, unfortunately a two
dimensional photo doesn't
do it justice. This is
Paul Gagnon's Explorer. |
Paul Sabin's ARB locked
Explorer Sport successfully climbs a hill near Hotel Rock. |
Paul Gagnon's Explorer had
ARB's but they were not yet wired in. The open diffs wouldn't allow this
Explorer up the hill. |
Paul Sabin's Explorer on
the edge of cliff
Text by:
Jack Lobdell
The Arch Canyon and Hotel Rock trips started
up with fine clear and windy weather. Joe Cushing from Austin just
happened to show up at my house and made a quick decision to take the jump
seat of my ’92. Joe’s a great spotter and ‘wheeler from many outings
with me in New Mexico.
We got a later start than planned but met
up with Rick Horwitz that afternoon in Blanding, Utah. That night
we went to an informative talk at the Edge of the Cedars Museum about GIS
uses in understanding the ancient Anasazi. It was early to bed and
nobody even heard the whine of Paul Gagnon’s big Thornbirds come in as
he finished a high speed cruise non-stop, except for a few Z’s in the Explorer,
over 1300 miles from Calgary Alberta.
Paul stumbled out earlier Friday morning
than I would have with so little sleep, sucked a quick mini-pot of coffee
and was ready to go do some scouting with us. Rick had a small power
steering leak and opted ride with Paul and fix the problem later that night.
After a few false starts getting GPS units working right, we found both
trails and proceeded up the Hotel Rock trail to an overlook and then back
up the main trail. It was great rockin’ until we found that off-camber
notorious shelf about half way up. Explorers are so wide that there
was only about 4" total to spare and the corner over a roll and drop was
so soft we decided to think about it. If you missed hitting the shelf
just right, you would be upside down 20’ down.
Discretion being the better part of stupidity,
we opted to go to Hotel Rock the back way. It’s a haul but goes up
pretty Cottonwood Wash to a ponderosa covered high mesa with forever views
and down switchbacks to the Rock. We got back late enough that Joe
and Paul worked real late trying to get his auto tranny to shift better
into 2nd to no avail but Rick did the minor fixes on his power steering.
By that time Trace Allen from Hurricane, Utah got in and so had Paul Sabin
from Tacoma, Washington, another 1300-mile driver!
Saturday was a pleasant but a bit dusty
drive and crawl to Hotel Rock. We stopped at Cottonwood Wash to see
a huge surface archaeological site that once had over 500 rooms.
There was pottery and tools everywhere. We climbed to the top of
this big mound and looked at all types of ancient things from the past.
This site once commanded all the people of the wash and surrounding area.
This is one of the capitols of the ancient Anasazi world that once had
more than 100,000 Pueblo Indians!
At the top of the mesa you can see Hotel
Rock, all of Arch Canyon and Comb Ridge. There are few vistas like
this anywhere in the world. There’s a great obstacle on the way to
Hotel Rock, the descent is one thing, coming back later is another!
At Hotel Rock it was time to see the unique ruins. This little granaries
protected corn from pests and raiders. One of the structures may
have been a sentry house. There once little farms all over the mesa.
This was time to talk environmental resources
as well. There is good reason to stay on the trail as some soils
here are actually alive! I pointed these out and talked about some
of the critters in the area. We had already discussed accepted behavior
at archaeological sites. Leave it all in place, take nothing, stay
out of the insides of ruins, stay off of walls, no exceptions! But
take lots of pictures and memories of these the most endangered of places.
If damaged, they will never recover…nobody’s making any more of them.
These must have been interesting
times some 1000 years ago. Imagine a large population farming these
dry mesas. With a big drought beginning in AD 1290, the people vanished.
There was probably mass starvation and survivors migrated out to other
areas. We know some got to the Hopi mesas in Arizona and others got
to the Rio Grande in New Mexico, but the Anasazi, a Navajo word for the
"Ancient Ones," are no more.
Everyone seemed to appreciate learning
about these environmental things. Joe finally ask, "So what do I
do if I see an endangered animal, eating an endangered plant, on endangered
biologic soil, in the middle of an endangered archaeological site?"
As a well-trained scientist, I can definitively answer, "I’m clueless!"
After lunch we opted to descend the Hotel
Rock trail and got almost all the way back to the notorious shelf.
There are a couple of obstacles that require lockers, with real bad saddles,
but we got most of the way down. It was getting late and we had a
long drive back. Both Paul Gagnon and Trace Allen, both unlocked
rigs, had zero problems coming back over the steep obstacles of the Hotel
Rock trail. That sandstone is not really "slickrock"…it’s gritty
and traction is good.
That drop-off on the return above Hotel
Rock was another story! It’s got loose silt everywhere, goes off-camber
to miss a big step, and only the three locked rigs made it. Both
Paul and Trace gave it a good try, but the ledges were spaced just perfectly
for their 4-door rigs to trip up. We thought about some winching
practice, but decide to use the quick drive-around instead. It was
back up the switchbacks and heading for Blanding.
Sunday was even clearer and warmer.
Trace had to head home but the remaining four rigs crawled Arch Canyon
without difficulty. This may the best canyon I’ve seen with its bright
red and stark white sandstone and green ponderosa pines. The creek
was running good.
The cliff dwellings are awesome.
It’s hard to imagine how anyone got home from work to some of these.
There was a system of ladders, hand holds, and ropes. One particularly
interesting ruin is Jailhouse Rock. In a natural cave, masonry wall
was built around wood lattice. Some of the wall is gone, leaving
it looking like a jail cell. It’s hard to imagine how anybody got
to it, except being lowered over the cliff!
The two-track trail is just over eight
miles long and ends at the confluence of Texas and Arch Canyons just below
Cathedral Arch. This is one of the nicest camp spots I’ve seen.
There is a perfect circle of shady ponderosas around a nice fire circle
with old logs for benches. We declared lunch!
Exploration after stuffing our faces was
an easy mile and a half on the Arch Canyon hiking trail. We got the
best views of both arches that way. Cathedral Arch looks just like
an old New England church with its spire and the arch. Angel Arch
has a shorter spire and "wings" beside its arch. The creek
was full of life, with some chubs lurking about and water skimmers looking
for minnows, and real cold from the recent snows. We saw or saw tracks
and scats of deer, quail, raccoon, coyote, and even mountain lion.
Heading back out was an uneventful, well
almost, ramble back out of the canyon. Paul Sabin got hung up on
his right rocker panel on a mongo rock while steeply descending into a
creek crossing. After using the high-lift, "trail-trained physicists"
ramped the rock along the leading edge. We got his front wheels turned
way over left and he drove off avoiding any more damage by a scant inch.
Only a small ding and some scratches! Strange, he wanted to talk
about nerf bars that night! Paul Gagnon took quite a whack on his
front diff, but no biggie other than a little bruised pride. Hats
off to Paul G. for doing the majority of the run with no middle gear! Everybody
got a little "Utah Pinstripping" from the trees…just a few reminders of
memories from a spectacular canyon, ruins, and weekend.
We ended up one last time on the Arch Canyon
overlook for the steep slickrock climb fun and just to say goodbye to the
great chasm. It was almost sunset as we put the wheels right up to
the edge of the cliff. It was hard to leave such a beautiful spot.
This was great run, the folks in Blanding are really nice, and you sure
can’t beat the scenery. I personally want to reunite with all the
participants again for more fine Explorer exploring.
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